Choosing the right coat: length, cut, and material
The coat is the most seen and least carefully chosen garment. We wear it five months a year, every day, and it covers everything else—but we often buy it in the urgency of the first cold snap, without the criteria we apply to a jacket.
Here is what really matters, in order.
Length decides everything
Before the color, before the fabric: the length. It determines what you can wear underneath.
Mid-length, below the knee. The most versatile. It covers a midi dress, a full suit, or jeans. If you only own one coat, this is the one.
Long, to the ankle. More formal, more enveloping. It covers a long dress — useful for a winter ceremony, where nothing is more unsightly than a hem poking out. It requires a certain height so as not to overwhelm your frame.
Short, to the hip. Practical for driving and cycling, but it cuts the silhouette and leaves the lower half exposed. Save it for statement pieces: leather, tweed, faux fur.
The cut, depending on what you wear underneath
An oversized straight coat can close over a blazer without pulling at the shoulders. It is the only cut that accommodates a full suit underneath without feeling restrictive.
A belted coat defines the waist and structures the silhouette, but it assumes you aren't wearing many layers. It works over fine knits, but poorly over a jacket.
Sleeveless—a long vest or sleeveless coat—is the mid-season compromise: it adds a layer without adding volume to the arms, and can be worn over a thick sweater.
Fabrics, without the jargon
Wool cloth is the classic fabric for tailored coats. It hangs straight, doesn't crease, and keeps its shape. This is what gives a coat its structured look.
Double-faced neoprene is lighter than it looks and stays warm without a lining. It doesn't wrinkle, which matters when you spend your days sitting.
Eco-leather resists light rain and folds without marking. It isn't warm on its own—it's a mid-season piece or an extra layer.
Faux fur provides volume and warmth, but dictates the silhouette. It's a statement piece, not a base.
Three useful colors
Chocolate has replaced black this season. It is just as easy, less harsh on the complexion, and pairs better with beiges and camels.
Camel remains the most elegant choice over raw denim. It gets dirty more easily; you have to accept that.
Navy blue is the most underrated: softer than black, more serious than camel, it transitions from the office to the weekend without a second thought.
The most frequent mistake
Buying a coat in your usual size, with short sleeves, in a heated fitting room.
Always try it on with what you plan to wear underneath—a sweater, a jacket. Check that you can cross your arms and lift a shoulder. Check the sleeve length with your wrist extended: a coat that rides up when you are driving will bother you all winter long.
And check the length while sitting, not just standing.
The ceremonial coat
A special case, and often forgotten: for a winter wedding, the coat will be visible in the photos leaving the church. A mid-length straight wool coat or a satin cape works; a puffer jacket does not.
This is an expense you rarely regret: the same coat will then serve you at the office all winter.
Try before you buy
More than any other piece, a coat must be judged while worn. The drape of the shoulders, the way it opens as you walk, the weight over the course of a day: none of this can be seen in a photo.
See Imperial coats — Dixie coats
Imperial Gallery — 38 avenue Maréchal de Saxe, Lyon 6e. Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 7 pm. Alterations on site.